13 September 2013

Goodbye Tailored Jacket: an autopsy.

I know it sounds really weird and kinda creepy too, but this post is not about what you might expect. For the summer I've been given a "Made-to-Measure" project about tailoring. In the long list of things to do for research there was the deconstruction of a tailored jacket in order to see the multitude of hidden techniques and details in a garment. We also had to take lots of photographs to document our autopsy and record the process through detailed notes in our sketchbook.

I wasn't that excited at first - the idea of tearing into pieces a tailored jacket wasn't high on my list of favourites - but I need to admit I've changed my mind as soon as I started the process. It is time consuming, but like all things we have a passion for, it got me completely. I found myself cutting through paddings, linings and pockets, literally craving for more details and interesting ideas.
I ended up with sleeves looking like fabric patterns of a tailored jacket, padding and interfacings barely recognisable and a more than ever vivid interest in the art of tailoring.

I thought you might be interested in how a jacket is on the inside, under the lining that covers all the magic happening underneath; so here is a short visual reportage of my "findings".


So this is how the jacket was before the process...


Inside pocket and lining visible here.


This jacket had just one central vent. You can also find jackets with two vents or with no vents at all. The positioning of a vent on a jacket helps the tailor to give the perfect fit to the jacket and to allow freedom of movements.

Front darts visible in this picture.

Lapel seen from the "other" side: it's made of felted fabric, which helps the collar to hold its shape and have more structure.


What's on the shoulder, underneath the lining.


Shoulder pads.




The sleeve is made up of two separated patterns.



Flap pocket.

Bodice patterns (Front).

Front dart on main bodice shown from the inside. The darts help create the curves that allow the garments to fit on our bodies.


Have you ever wondered "what's inside" a tailored jacket or - more generally - your garments?? I think it's really fascinating to know how a garment is constructed.

x, Val.

40 comments:

  1. darling thanks for visiting my blog!! If u want we can follow each other! just let me know

    kiss

    SHAN
    www.memyheelsandi.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Awwwh it's a pleasure! And of course, I am following you :)

      Delete
  2. nice :)

    do you want to follow each other?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Of course, follow me and I'll follow you right back!

      x, Val.

      Delete
  3. Love your blog, thanks for checking out ours xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you very much! You're welcome anytime ;)

      x, Val.

      Delete
  4. hello!!!! this is my first time visiting your blog, this is a great post and you have a great blog also... I love it! please come visit my blog some day, I have great projects and you´ll be very welcome...
    kisses dear
    www.petitgraphie.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello there, thank you very much for visiting my blog , I really appreciated it and I am very happy and proud that you liked it!!
      I've seen your blog and I think it's very cute too!
      I hope we can keep in touch!!
      Keep checking my blog out for more posts, I'm always updating it ;)

      Talk to you soon,

      x, Val.

      Delete
  5. Hehe I love this post! Sooo inspiring! Amazing photos!

    Regards,
    Katherine Unique


    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Katherine, thanks so much!!
      I'm glad you found it inspiring!!

      x, Val.

      Delete
  6. Nice Blog and also thanks for visiting my blog

    vivianista.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Vivian, and it was my pleasure :)

      x, Val.

      Delete
  7. Thank you for your visit and your nice comment.
    Your blog is really cool, and this post very interesting.

    I hope to see you soon on my blog, kisses

    NEW OUTFIT POST

    www.angelswearheels.com

    ReplyDelete
  8. Great post! Love your blog :) Would love if we could follow each other?

    XoXo
    Teresa
    www.chicaffordable.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there! Sure I would, just leave your link here in a comment or follow me and I'll follow you right back!

      x, Val.

      Delete
  9. Thanks for the lovely comment :)

    Love ur blog..followed ya as well on Bloglovin
    Hope u will follow back
    xoxo

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi!! Thanks so much!! I've followed you back, can't wait to have new posts to read from your blog!

      x, Val.

      Delete
  10. Amazing pictures!:)

    http://freshisyummy.blogspot.com/2013/09/applause.html

    ReplyDelete
  11. Ciao Valentina, che blog carino che hai! Grazie per essere passata da me, se ti va possiamo seguirci! Fammi sapere ;)

    Fashion blog: http://lowbudget-lowcost.blogspot.it/2013/09/kenzo-eye-sweatshirt-one-season-trend.html

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Grazie mille!! Ma certo, fammi avere il tuo link su bloglovin cosi' posso seguirti!!

      x, Val.

      Delete
  12. Yea is total amazing do this.. :)
    Thank you for your commetn

    Follow you dear, hope you follow back :)
    My blog By Joyce ♥ // Bloglovin ♥ // INSTAGRAM ♥

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks and i'll follow you right back ;)

      x, Val.

      Delete
  13. I completely agree with you! It's fantastic! Thank you for sharing your adventure with us!

    kisses

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Awwwhh you're welcome!! Keep visiting my blog for more interesting posts!!

      x, Val.

      Delete
  14. Amazing post...I enjoyed to read it. Well done...I will follow you on Bloglovin...

    Lubica

    http://lttreasure.blogspot.co.uk/

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Lubica, I'm glad you enjoyed it!! And thanks for following

      x, Val.

      Delete
  15. I really liked your blog (: it's amazing.

    ReplyDelete
  16. heey great blog post:) If you want to follow on bloglovin just let me know on my blog:) Thank you:)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey there, thank you!!
      I'll check your blog out and let you know :)

      x, Val.

      Delete
  17. Wowww.........it's fabulous!!! Great work!! Thank you so much for stopping by, would you like to follow each other on Google+ and Bloglovin’? I promise I’ll follow you back <3

    x♥x♥

    "Saúde & Beleza - Health & Beauty"




    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Maria!
      I'm following you both on Bloglovin and Google+!

      Talk to you soon
      x, Val.

      Delete
    2. Thank you so much for following! I'm following you back now on ”Google+” and ”bloglovin (#12)”
      Keep in touch sweetie! Hope you have a fabulous week ahead<3

      x♥x♥

      "Saúde & Beleza - Health & Beauty"




      Delete
    3. Thanks dear! And you have a great week too!!

      x, Val.

      Delete
  18. Love how you though of this! Great post and great blog :)

    Thank you for your lovely comment on my blog :) Would you like to follow each other? If you follow me, I'll follow right back for sure :)

    Kisses from Zurich,
    Kristina

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Kristina!!! Of course, I am following you on Bloglovin and blogger!

      x, Val.

      Delete